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ESSENTIAL KOREA

SEOUL, CULTURE & THE KOREAN WAR

Sep. 9-19, 2028

Vibrant nighttime Seoul sign at Seoul Square, welcoming visitors to Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea: Seoul, Culture & the Korean War tour, September 9–19, 2028.

Overview

ESSENTIAL KOREA: SEOUL, CULTURE & THE KOREAN WAR

September 9-19, 2028

 

75 years ago, the “Forgotten War” ended in stalemate and an armistice that remains to this day. Korea has been one of the world’s most-watched strategic locations for decades, where a rapidly developing economic powerhouse in the south faced off against a backwards “hermit” regime in the north, albeit one with significant military capacity.

 

Korea’s history and culture are defined by 5,000-years of resilience, often described as a "shrimp between whales" caught between the powerful influences of China and Japan. From its legendary founding in 2333 BCE, the peninsula developed a distinct identity. The Joseon Dynasty, which ruled 100 years before Columbus arrived in America till the dawn of the 20th c, further solidified Korean culture by establishing Neo-Confucianism as the state ideology and introducing Hangul, the unique Korean alphabet, to promote literacy.

 

Thirty-five years of Japanese colonial rule from 1910, was followed by the North-South division of the peninsula after World War II. This split led to the devastating Korean War of 1950–1953. Despite these challenges, South Korea underwent a rapid economic transformation known as the "Miracle on the Han River," evolving from a war-torn nation into a global leader in technology, education, and entertainment.

 

This trip will examine conflict on the Korean peninsula while immersing in the beautiful and deeply rooted culture and traditions of the country. We travel south from Seoul to explore Daegu. We will visit battlefields and temples as we follow the early timeline of the Korean War, all the way to the Pusan Perimeter, and the city of Busan. We then return north and track the movements of UN forces as they pushed back to Seoul and visit Incheon on the anniversary of Operation CHROMITE and the Incheon Landings. We will visit the battlefield of Chipyong-ni and learn about the first American victory over the Chinese and conclude with a visit to the famed DMZ while looking across into North Korea. We end the trip in the beauty of Seoul, the national capital and megacity where 600-year old palaces sit in the shadow of some of the world’s tallest skyscrapers. This is truly the adventure of a lifetime!

Inclusions

  • Ten nights boutique/luxury accommodations.
  • In-depth guided tours with professional military strategist.
  • Local Korean guide as necessary.
  • Full-time tour manager for personalized support.
  • Visit local Korea cultural/historical sites.
  • Transportation by luxury bus throughout trip.
  • Airport transfers to/from hotel.
  • Optional opportunity to role-play an important character in Korean War or Korean cultural history.
  • Group meals as indicated in the itinerary.
  • Two bottles of water per day per person.
  • All entrance fees for group activities.
  • Gratuities for docents and restaurants.
  • Optional travel insurance available through Travelex. Please contact Claire at claire@historyexp.com for a personalized quote.
  • Itinerary subject to slight changes.
  • Airfare to/from Jeju (if option selected).

Exclusions

  • Flights to/from Korea.
  • Airport transfers.
  • Alcohol, unless specifically included in the itinerary.

Pricing

Reserve your space on this expedition with a deposit of $1,000 per person today!

  • The per person pricing for this expedition will be available on our website at www.historyexp.com 12-18 months before the expedition start date.
  • We will contact reserved guests when we have released updated trip pricing.
  • You may cancel or update your booking with no penalty when we release trip pricing.
  • All deposits will be applied to your final invoice.

your expedition leaders

Jonathan Fursman

Claire Fursman

$1,000 per person

StartSeptember 9, 2028
EndSeptember 19, 2028
Book Now

$1,000 per person

Book Now

Itinerary

  • Departures

    We suggest morning departures to arrive in US able to make connections home on Tuesday evening.

Itinerary Extension

JEJU

  • Welcome Dinner

    • Introductions and itinerary overview in our Seoul hotel restaurant. Get an early night’s sleep as tomorrow begins before dawn.
    • Hotel: Courtyard by Marriott Seoul Times Square (or similar).
    Panoramic Seoul skyline featuring Lotte World Tower and N Seoul Tower, the final stunning view before departing for the optional Jeju extension on Essential History Expeditions’ Korea tour.
  • Attack and Defense of Jeju

    • Breakfast.
    • In the morning, depart for Gimpo International Airport for our flight to Jeju.
    • Arrive in Jeju and take in the differences between Seoul and this small island!
    • It was also of strategic importance to the Japanese before and during WWII, serving as a source of forced labor and becoming a massive military fortress to protect the Japanese mainland.
    • We will board the bus and drive over the middle to Altteureu Airfield, which served as a key airbase for bombing missions against China, and again during the war, when it was used to train kamikaze pilots. We will see concrete hangars designed to hide and protect fighter planes, what is left of the control tower and anti-aircraft emplacements, and a sculpture of a Zero fighter plan made from rebar.
    • Nearby, we will see some of the remaining Japanese caves that were excavated all over the island and used to hide motorboats and small submarines from the Allies.
    • We will take a short drive to the Songaksan Mountain Trail, where you can see Japanese caves dug into the cliffs and amazing views of the south side of the island.
    • Lunch will be on your own at one of the local restaurants near Songaksan Mountain.
    • After finishing our hike, we will take the bus to our hotel and check in.
    • Explore the beautiful grounds of our hotel! There are walking trails if you want to keep moving or you can relax by the pool.
    • Group dinner at one of the hotel restaurants.
    • Hotel: The Shilla Jeju (or similar).
  • Return to Seoul

    • Breakfast.
    • In the morning, depart for Jeju airport and the return flight to Seoul. Transfer to the hotel and this afternoon, evening and tomorrow morning are your own until our main group meets for lunch on the 9th to begin the larger expedition!
    • Hotel: Marriott Hotel (or similar).
Jonathan Fursman and Claire Fursman, Expedition Leader and Directors at Essential History Expeditions

Jon & Claire Fursman

Seoul, South Korea

Jonathan is a retired U.S. Army Infantry officer who commissioned out of Cornell Army ROTC with a BA in Government. Jon also holds a Master of Public Policy from The George Washington University.



On active duty, Jon deployed as a combat leader to Iraq and Afghanistan multiple times, including as a rifle company commander in Baghdad in 2007. He was also an Assistant Professor of Defense & Strategic Studies at the United States Military Academy, West Point, NY for three years where he became an expert at leading staff rides. He later worked in Strategic Plans & Policy at U.S. Africa Command, commanded a Stryker infantry battalion, and served in the Republic of Korea for four years.



Today, he blends his professional military and teaching experience with his education in military strategy and public policy to deliver unique, thoughtful expeditions for EHE guests around the world.

Claire is a former U.S. Army Medical Service officer who graduated from Indiana University of Pennsylvania with a BS in Environmental Science and a master’s in human relations from University of Oklahoma.



After leaving active duty, Claire volunteered with local spouse’s club groups, PTSOs, and other organizations that support military spouses and local schools. She regularly served as president, secretary, and other chairs in military community organizations. Most recently, she worked at the Department of Defense high school in Korea as a substitute teacher, and in the main office and counseling suite.



Claire serves as an expedition director and the company social media manager. She is excited to share her love of travel and to build and support the many exceptional EHE expeditions.

Welcome to Korea!

  • Seoul is the largest and most spectacular of Korea’s cities, with centuries of history, culture, and technology mixing side-by-side. Arrive and check-in to our lodgings near Seoul Times Square.
  • An early dinner at 4pm at the hotel for introductions and overview of the trip.
  • Plenty of time to wander around and get a good night’s sleep to help beat the jet lag – the trip starts early the next morning!
  • Hotel: Marriott Hotel (or similar).
Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest and most iconic of Seoul’s Joseon Dynasty palaces, illuminated at night as a stunning introduction to Korean royal history on Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.
Iconic Seoul skyline with North Seoul Tower atop Namsan Mountain overlooking the city, showcasing the blend of tradition and modernity on Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.

Task Force Smith to Daegu

  • After a refreshing restful night and breakfast, we will board the bus and start heading south.
  • Our first stop is the Task Force Smith Memorial where we will discuss the Battle of Osan and the start of the Korean War in late June and early July 1950. The US Army’s unpreparedness for war, brutally demonstrated here, resonates across our military to this day.
  • We have lunch on your own at one of the many unique and fun Korean highway rest stops. Known as hyugeuso, these are considered destinations rather than just quick pit stops. They are famous for their high-quality food, futuristic amenities, and exceptionally clean, often themed facilities. They are a major part of the Korean travel experience!
  • We continue to Daegu, Korea’s fourth largest city and a major cultural and historic hub in the southeastern region, and check-in to our hotel.
  • Dinner on your own in downtown Daegu.
  • Hotel: Daegu Marriott Hotel (or similar).
Foggy sunrise over the Daemyung Detention Basin in Daegu, South Korea’s fourth largest city and a critical location during the early Korean War, visited on Essential History Expeditions’ tour.
Aerial view of Daegu, South Korea’s fourth largest city and a key hub during the Korean War, visited on Day 2 of Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.

Daegu, Nakdong River, Busan

  • Breakfast.
  • We begin the day with a short walking tour of Daegu, often called “Textile City”. The bus will drop us off in the Jung-gu district, where the city’s most significant modern and traditional history is concentrated.
  • After a short walk, the bus will pick us up and our first stop will be just outside the city at the Nakdong River Victory Memorial Hall, where we will discuss the Nakdong River and its role in forming the famed Pusan Perimeter, the desperate defensive stand of American and South Korean units under the UN banner against the North Korean onslaught.
  • We will leave the museum and drive toward the Nakdong River, the Pusan Perimeter’s western boundary and primary line of defense. We will discuss the movements of UN and North Korean forces from August to September 1950, and the battles that occurred.
  • Lunch is on your own at a highway rest stop near Yeongsan, around the Nakdong Bulge, a semi-circular bend in the river where some of the most brutal fighting occurred.
  • After lunch we drive into Busan, taking in the gorgeous views of the mountains as we come to understand the geography of the region.
  • Our hotel is nestled at the end of Haeundae Beach, one of the most popular tourist destinations in Korea! Take a walk along the beach and enjoy the beautiful scenery.
  • Dinner will be on your own – consider one of the many restaurants right off the beach, famous for premium seafood and Korean BBQ, or walk to the Haeundae Market, a popular destination for street food and fresh seafood.
  • Hotel: The Westin Josun Busan (or similar).
Scenic view of the Nakdong River, the western boundary of the Pusan Perimeter during the desperate early fighting of the Korean War, explored on Essential History Expeditions’ tour.
Stunning nighttime view of Busan and Haeundae Beach, one of South Korea’s most vibrant coastal cities and a major stop on Essential History Expeditions’ Korea history and culture tour.

History of Busan

  • Breakfast
  • Board the bus and take the drive across the Geoga Bridge to visit Geoje Island, the site of the Geoje POW Camp where North Korean and Chinese prisoners of war were held during the Korean War. We will visit the Geojedo POW Camp Historic Park, designated as Cultural Heritage Material, exploring the camp ruins and learning about its complicated history.
  • Lunch on your own at a highway rest stop right on the water with a beautiful view of the Geoga Grand Bridge and the other small islands off the coast of Busan.
  • In the afternoon, we visit the UN Memorial Cemetery in Busan – the only UN cemetery in the world. It serves as the sacred final resting place for 2,300 service members from 11 countries who fought under UN Command during the Korean War.
  • After a short drive back, we will enjoy a group dinner at Camelia, the beautiful Westin restaurant looking out over Haeundae Beach.
  • Hotel: The Westin Josun Busan.
Scenic view from Geoje Island overlooking the coastline and city, site of the historic Geoje POW Camp during the Korean War, visited on Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.
UN Memorial Cemetery in Busan, the only United Nations cemetery in the world and final resting place for thousands who served in the Korean War, explored on Essential History Expeditions’ tour.

The Beauty of Busan

  • After four packed expedition days, it’s time to relax! This day is yours – on the beach at Haeundae, poolside at our gorgeous hotel, or shopping in downtown Busan.
  • We also recommend the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, a rare 14th century Buddhist temple built directly on a rocky cliff overlooking the sea. It is truly magnificent! Head to Haeundae BlueLine Park, where you can ride the Sky Capsule, a colorful, private mini-train that glides along a raised coastal track offering stunning unobstructed ocean views. There are several stops, so go as far as you want along the coast! See Gwangalli Beach, a more casual beach offering views of the Gwangan Bridge. If you are feeling adventurous, take a short ride to the Jalgachi Market, Korea’s largest seafood market! You can browse the massive selection of live fish and have your choice prepared fresh. Or visit Huinnyeol Culture Village, known as the “Santorini of Busan”, offering a more peaceful coastal walk with sea-facing murals and narrow alleys.
  • Lunch and dinner on your own in Busan.
  • Hotel: The Westin Josun Busan.
Beautiful Haeundae Beach with modern Busan skyline in the background, a relaxing highlight of the free day on Essential History Expeditions’ Korea history and culture tour.
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple dramatically perched on the rocky coastline, one of Korea’s most picturesque seaside Buddhist temples visited during the Busan free day on Essential History Expeditions’ tour.

Busan to Suwon

  • Breakfast.
  • We will depart early for our long drive north!
  • As we leave Busan and the southeast, we will reflect on the timeline and events of the fall of 1950. This was a time of major transition in the war as General Douglas MacArthur prepares his amphibious counterattack for September 15 at Incheon. We will follow the path of Eighth Army 78 years later almost to the day in the second half of MacArthur’s strategy, the concurrent northward breakout of UN forces from the Pusan Perimeter.
  • Lunch will again be at one of the amazing highway rest stops – there is always something fantastic to eat!
  • While heading north we will drive through Pyeongtaek, where the current US and UN Forces are headquartered at Camp Humphreys, to include Eighth Army (which never left!). We will pass by Osan and Osan Air Base. Established in 1951, it is the only remaining US Air Force base in Korea built from scratch during the conflict.
  • We will check in to the hotel, and then, after freshening up, head out to the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, it is celebrated as the pinnacle of the late Joseon Dynasty military architecture, blending traditional Korean construction with innovative Western scientific influences. The walls of the fortress stretch over 3.5 miles! They follow the natural topography of the land, including hilly and flat terrain. If we are lucky, we will catch the Suwon Hwaseong Cultural Festival, which runs during the fall, and features massive royal processions and traditional performances.
  • You will have time on your own to explore as much of the fortress as you want, as well as having dinner on your own at one of the local restaurants.
  • After enjoying the fortress illuminated at night, we will bus back to the hotel.
  • Hotel: Marriott Hotel (or similar).
Historic stone walls and watchtower of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site blending traditional Korean and Western military architecture, visited during Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.
Suwon Hwaseong Fortress illuminated at night, a magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site and pinnacle of Joseon Dynasty military architecture, visited on Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.

Incheon Landings – Operation CHROMITE

  • Breakfast.
  • After a short drive from Suwon to Incheon, we will start our examination of Operation CHROMITE, better known as the Incheon Landings.
  • This high-stakes amphibious assault on September 15, 1950, was orchestrated by MacArthur, and fundamentally reversed the momentum of the Korean War. The operation bypassed the front lines to strike a decisive blow against the North Korean rear area.
  • There were incredible tactical hurdles to overcome, like extreme tides, tight shipping channels, and high seawalls. The Joint Chiefs and many subordinate leaders felt the risk was too great, but MacArthur understood that success lay in doing what many thought to be impossible.
  • We will visit several battle sites including Wolmido Island, where the 5th Marines landed, Red Beach and Cemetery Hill, where the main force of the 1st Marine Division scaled seawalls, and Observatory Hill, site of the Freedom Park and MacArthur Memorial. The US Army’s 7th Infantry Division also came ashore here to complete the X Corps’ forces.
  • We will enjoy lunch boxes in Freedom Park.
  • As we will be visiting on the anniversary of the landings, we will modify the day’s schedule as needed based on public commemoration events.
  • After a short drive into Songdo, we will check into our hotel, right across the street from the Songdo Central Park and Songdo Hanok Village.
  • Enjoy a walk around the lake and enjoy the beauty and tranquility of the park before dinner on your own at one of the area’s many restaurants!
  • Hotel: Sheraton Grand Incheon (or similar).
MacArthur Statue at Freedom Park in Incheon, commemorating the historic 1950 Incheon Landing (Operation CHROMITE) on the anniversary during Essential History Expeditions’ Korean War tour.
Modern Incheon cityscape with Central Park and iconic bridge, site of the daring 1950 Incheon amphibious landings explored on Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.

Incheon to Seoul

  • Breakfast.
  • After checking out, we will visit the nearby Memorial Hall for the Incheon Landing Operation. This hilltop memorial and exhibition hall superbly commemorates the landings and is a great way to finish up our visit to Incheon and Songdo.
  • We then follow the path of the Marines pushing inland toward Seoul as we drive into the city.
  • After checking into our hotel, with a short break and lunch there, we will go on a walking tour of the area, to include views of Seoul Tower, Namdaemun Market, the Seoul City Wall and Sungnyemun Gate (one of six still standing), City Hall, Deoksugung Palace, and Gwanghwamun Square.
  • You have the rest of the afternoon to yourself to explore the city! Consider walking to the Gwanghwamun Gate and visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest and most iconic of the five grand palaces built during the Joseon Dynasty; or wandering through Insadong, the cultural heart of Seoul, with art galleries, tea houses, and the beautiful Jogyesa Temple. Our hotel will be located in Myeongdong, Seoul’s primary shopping and tourism district, with access to amazing shopping and fantastic food.
  • In the evening, we recommend the Myeongdong Night Market to sample some of the most popular street food.
  • Enjoy dinner on your own in Seoul.
  • Lodging: Marriott Hotel (or similar).
Traditional Joseon Dynasty royal guards in colorful hanbok performing at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, a highlight of Korean cultural heritage on Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.
Seoul City Wall with modern skyscrapers in the background, illustrating the striking contrast between ancient fortifications and today’s dynamic capital on Essential History Expeditions’ Korea tour.

Battle of Chipyong-ni

  • Breakfast.
  • We depart early for Chipyong-ni, often called the “Gettysburg of the Korean War”. It was a decisive turning point where UN Forces successfully repelled a massive Chinese offensive, proving that the Chinese “human wave” tactics could be defeated.
  • We will visit various sites around the battlefield, including the UN Forces Memorial – Twin Tunnels, locations around Chipyong-ni, and the Chipyong-ni Battle Memorial Museum.
  • In the park outside the memorial museum, we will enjoy our box lunches.
  • Following the drive back to the hotel, you will have time on your own in the evening.
  • Dinner on your own in Seoul.
  • Hotel: Marriott Hotel.
Chipyong-ni Battle Memorial and monuments, site of the decisive “Gettysburg of the Korean War” where UN forces defeated a major Chinese offensive, visited on Essential History Expeditions’ tour.
Panoramic nighttime view of Seoul’s illuminated skyline, showcasing the vibrant modern capital that concludes Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea: Seoul, Culture & the Korean War tour.

Korea and the DMZ or The Majesty of Seoul

  • On our final day, you decide how you want to spend your time. You can choose from a guided tour of the DMZ or spending the day in the city exploring!

Option 1 – The DMZ

  • This will be an early start so we can make our way to the DMZ!
  • The Korean DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) is one of the most heavily fortified borders in the world, marked by barbed wire, an estimated 2 million land mines, and massive military forces on both sides.
  • We take the bus from Seoul up to Paju, where we will check in at the Imjingak Peace Park. After exploring the Peace Park, we board a bus specifically for our tour of the DMZ area. We will visit the Third Infiltration Tunnel, one of the four tunnels dug by North Korea for a potential invasion, and Dora Observatory, the northernmost point on the South Korean side of the military demarcation line and offering the most comprehensive view into North Korea, including Kaesong City, the Propaganda Village Kijong-dong, and Kaesong Industrial Complex.
  • Back at the Imjingak Peace Park, we will have lunch on your own at any of the cafés in and around the visitor’s center and then return to Seoul.

Option 2 – Day on Your Own in Seoul

  • Whether you want to visit all the markets, palaces, or antique stores, there are plenty of things to do!
  • Some ideas on how to spend your day:
  • Military History and more: Go to the War Memorial Museum of Korea and the National Museum of Korea. Look out at Yongsan Park, formerly a US military base, right in the center of Seoul. Explore Itaewon, recognized as Seoul’s “international district”, with global dining and stores selling all kinds of vintage and antiques.
  • Hiker’s Dream: Go to the Seoul Tower at the top of Namsan Mountain. Enjoy seeing Seoul from all sides, especially the incredible geography of the capital. Walk down Namsan to the Seoul City Wall and walk along part of the historic wall around the old city of Seoul.
  • Market Mania: Explore all the markets! From Namdaemun to Dongdaemun, there is so much to see and enjoy.

  • We will all meet up after our busy day for a final group dinner and farewell at the hotel.
  • Hotel: Marriott Hotel.
Iconic DMZ sign and peace sculpture at Imjingak Peace Park, the gateway to the Demilitarized Zone visited on the final day of Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.
View into North Korea from the DMZ Dora Observatory using binoculars, one of the most powerful moments on Essential History Expeditions’ Korean War and DMZ tour.
Traditional Joseon Dynasty royal guards in vibrant hanbok standing in formation, representing Korea’s rich cultural heritage on Essential History Expeditions’ Essential Korea tour.
Stone grandfather statues (Harubang) flanking the staircase entrance to Hallasan Mountain, the highest peak in South Korea and a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site on Essential History Expeditions’ Jeju extension.
Dramatic volcanic coastline and cliffs of Jeju Island, showcasing the island’s unique geological beauty formed by ancient eruptions during the Jeju pre-trip extension with Essential History Expeditions.

Nature and Culture of Jeju

  • Breakfast.
  • Called the “Hawaii of Korea”, Jeju Island was formed entirely by volcanic eruptions approximately 2 million years ago. It is a world-renowned natural paradise holding a UNESCO “Triple Crown”: World Natural Heritage, Biosphere Reserve, and Global Geopark. Hallasan Mountain is the highest peak in Korea and sits at the island’s center.
  • The culture of Jeju is also unique. The legendary community of female divers known as Haenyeo (Sea Women) thrive here. These women dive deep to harvest seafood such as abalone and sea urchins all without oxygen tanks!
  • We will check out of the hotel and, at our first stop, view the Jusangjeolli Cliffs – stunning hexagonal basalt columns formed when lava cooled and solidified as it hit the sea.
  • We will continue to Seongsan Ilchulbong, the volcanic tuff cone also known as Sunrise Peak. We will walk to the top to see the sweeping views of the island and its volcanic landscape.
  • Lunch on your own at one of the many local restaurants below the peak.
  • Next, we visit the Jeju Haenyeo Museum where we will examine the amazing work these generations of women divers have done and still do.
  • From there we make our way to Hamdeok Beach to relax! Walk along the white sand, hike out to the observation deck, or just sit on the beach and enjoy the sun.
  • Driving into Jeju City, we will check into our hotel.
  • Explore downtown Jeju City on your own. We recommend you visit the Nuwemaru pedestrian shopping street just steps from our hotel.
  • Group dinner at a Korean BBQ restaurant where we can try the local specialty, black pork.
  • Hotel: Grand Hyatt Jeju (or similar).
Haenyeo sea women, the legendary female free divers of Jeju Island, harvesting seafood in traditional white uniforms, a unique cultural highlight of Essential History Expeditions’ Jeju extension.
Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak), the iconic volcanic tuff cone and UNESCO World Natural Heritage site on Jeju Island, visited during Essential History Expeditions’ Jeju pre-trip extension.
Traditional Jeju stone grandfather statue (Harubang), one of the island’s most recognizable cultural symbols carved from volcanic rock, featured on Essential History Expeditions’ Jeju extension.